Brake Pad Replacement?

[FreakyFastFreddie]

So, with my new wheels, cleaning the abundance amount of brake dust is killer! Would changing out the pads to ceramic or another type make a difference? I don't want anything that will squeak, because there's nothing I hate more than squeaky brakes.

Any suggestions on pads or other ideas for reducing the amount of dust on my new rims?

Fred

[gorgeous-ss]

I used hawk ceramic pads and got my rear rotors turned and fronts are new rotors but here is a thread on c5

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207904

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

[gorgeous-ss]

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189890

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

[FreakyFastFreddie]

I now have Hawk Ceramic Pads ready to go on the car. I've read many posts about bedding the pads and lubing up the pads before install. I'd like to hear what people here have done to prevent squealing and bedding process.

Thanks!

[TBone]

Each pad/company has a specific bedding process per pad, make sure you follow what the manufacture says. Also make sure you scuff up the rotors with a green pad or some sandpaper between pad changes.

Lube is a personal thing, don't go there, so do your homework there.

Other than that it should not take you more than an hour to change all four.

While you are at it though have you checked your fluid? Does it still look nice and clear? If not now would be a good time to do a bleed. It should only add a half hour if you have an extra hand to help you out.

T.

[TBone]

This stuff look like it could hold up to the extreme temps of racing.

Specialty Lubricants - Brakes : Permatex® CeramicExtreme Brake PartsLubricant

Permatex® CeramicExtreme Brake PartsLubricant

"A 100% synthetic formula, coupled with real ceramic solids make this premium brake lubricant our longest lasting, most temperature resistant way to silence brake noise. Effective from -50°F to 3000°F (-46°C to 1649°C), this product maintains its lubricating integrity under the most extreme conditions. Resistant to corrosion and contaminants, it will not wash out."

T.

[bannonm]

This stuff look like it could hold up to the extreme temps of racing.

Specialty Lubricants - Brakes : Permatex® CeramicExtreme Brake PartsLubricant

Permatex® CeramicExtreme Brake PartsLubricant

T.

Unfortunately this stuff doesn't last either. After a couple of track days it pretty much was gone.

Word of caution. More is NOT better. If you use any kind of lubricant and it gets on the dust boots it will melt them. Use it sparingly and in the right places. If you track you're car regularly, don't even bother with it.

I've found with the Hawk HP+, once I got a proper bedding the noise was minimal. You can always resurface the pads and rotors and redo the bedding process if you have noise now. I did it twice and the second time took.

[bannonm]

Each pad/company has a specific bedding process per pad, make sure you follow what the manufacture says. Also make sure you scuff up the rotors with a green pad or some sandpaper between pad changes.

Lube is a personal thing, don't go there, so do your homework there.

Other than that it should not take you more than an hour to change all four.

While you are at it though have you checked your fluid? Does it still look nice and clear? If not now would be a good time to do a bleed. It should only add a half hour if you have an extra hand to help you out.

T.

What he said.

[FreakyFastFreddie]

Thanks guys. The pads came with some grease and says to liberally put a coating on the back side of the pads. I'll probably just use what they sent me and hope for the best.

I went to the Hawk website and here's their bedding process that I will follow as well.
BEDDING PROCESS:
1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5. After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.

[HumanWiki]

You also want to make sure the pad backs away from the rotor after a couple standing pumps. That's where that lube/grease comes in. It helps to keep the pad from getting in a bind or sticking inside the caliper, possibly pushing against the rotor.

If the pad is stuck against the rotor with binding pressure as you try to drive, it's almost like driving with the brakes on and will cause premature wear or outright damage to the components.

[Pro Stock John]

So my 2010 SS is at 15,000 miles now.

I need to ditch my roller skate pads, will they get noisy if I just cut off the wheel part?

Otherwise I'll do pads, but I should have my rotors cut too?

[HumanWiki]

The roller skates are there to help eliminate harmonics, so, you ~could~ get the squeal if you remove them.

I went straight to XP10/XP8 and they sounded like singing crystal glasses.

[SYCK SS]

I never had the skates and yes I get the noises from time to time, but I am used to it and just tell people its the high performance brakes lol... speaking of I need new ones.

sent from my galaxy s3. that would explain the errors.

[FreakyFastFreddie]

So my 2010 SS is at 15,000 miles now.

I need to ditch my roller skate pads, will they get noisy if I just cut off the wheel part?

Otherwise I'll do pads, but I should have my rotors cut too?

I thought the roller skates were part of the factory pads. So, if you replace with factory GM pads, you get the roller skates with them. If you go with say Hawk's, then the roller skates go away when you take the old ones out. I've not done mine yet so I can't confirm that. Been trying to get to it all week with no luck. Maybe tonight.

I'm someone else knows the answer to this...

[HumanWiki]

Before I sold my car I had OE pads installed from LCPC and I don't believe the newer versions had the roller skates on them, but, I could be mistaken since I didn't take a close look at them.

The OE for 2010 for sure do.