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Rotating Mass Reduction Options

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  • Rotating Mass Reduction Options

    So.. There's a new Hi-Per A/S Tire from General.. The G-Max AS-03..

    Not only is it an All Season HiPerf tire that comes in stock sizing, it's cheaper than the PZ0s and is 26 lbs front weight and 30 lbs rear weight... Compared to the PZ0 32 lbs front and 35 lbs rear.. That's 22 lbs of outer rotating mass reduction for quite cheap.

    Add those to the existing options...

    Get a set of the TSW Nuburgring wheels and that's 22 lbs front and 24 lbs rear over the stock 30.3 lbs front and 32 lbs rear. So that's another 32.6 lbs

    Get a set of racing brake front/rear rotors + hawk pads to match and that's 20.5 lbs front and 18 lbs rear over the stock front 25.2 lbs and rear 24 lbs. That's another 21.4 lbs

    Total by just changing tires, wheels and rotors -- -76 lbs of rotating mass.. which is just awesome..

    Now, I know that the AS-03 have a higher tread rating than the PZ0s, so I'm sure that's going to cause some traction loss, but you have to admit -- for people not wanting to do heads, cam, FI, N20, etc.. This would be quite the little performance pickup -- especially coupled with some Trailing Arms, SubFrame/Cradle bushes..


    Tires --
    2x -- 245/45/20 (181.00 each)
    2x -- 275/40/20 (202.00 each)
    ------------------
    766.00 (Parts only) per Tire Rack

    Wheels --
    TSW Nurburgrings

    20x8.5
    20x10
    ------------------
    1200.00-1400.00 for set of 4 depending on where you get them and if you can get a Wheel/Tire/Mount/Balance package.


    Rotors --
    Front Open Slot -- 456.61 each
    Rear Open Slot -- 492.00 each
    Hawk Pads Front -- 182.75 / pair
    Hawk Pads Rear -- 100.21 / pair
    ------------------
    2180.18 --- For Rotors and Pads -- parts only direct from Racing Brake -- Obviously not the cheapest, but... when compared to adding more power to the engine, is still around normal.. I'm not an expert in any of these, so I can't get any opinions other than it appears to be a nice little option for reducing the amount of weight people with 20"s have to spin around.
    Last edited by Guest; 05-27-2011, 04:12 PM.

  • #2
    And how much do each one of those cost? Can you put the $$ by the items?
    2018 ZL1 A10 Convertible, Kooks Longtube Headers (to be installed 8Jan) Full Kooks exhaust from Kooks R&D in Mooresville, NC, ZL1 painted GFX, My ShowStopper Custom Engine Cover Kit and painted CAI. For Sale! Color Shift Lights coming soon[/SIZE][/B]

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Orange5thGen View Post
      And how much do each one of those cost? Can you put the $$ by the items?

      Updated.

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      • #4
        Good thoughts, and nice find on the tires. But 4g to drop 75 pounds? I think I would go with a cam package, a nice coat of wax, and some high horse power stickers.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by priz23 View Post
          Good thoughts, and nice find on the tires. But 4g to drop 75 pounds? I think I would go with a cam package, a nice coat of wax, and some high horse power stickers.
          That's how I got to the top of the fast list

          All kidding aside, Randy is onto something here.....rotating mass does make a difference. You could skate without the brake upgrade though.

          There was a guy on C5 with a sim program....I gave him all my cars info and asked him to spit out quarter mile times for a 20" drag radial vs. an 18" drag radial.

          Keep in mind the car just ran 12.1 @ 116 on a 20" DR.

          His estimates were as follows:
          20" DR : 12.19 @ 115.4
          18" DR : 11.68 @ 116.1

          Less rotating mass = faster ETs

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          • #6
            I know the brakes aren't the cheapest for sure.. That's an extreme mod in my book given the purpose for buying would be weight loss, not braking enhancements..

            But, for 4K and for someone wanting a little more pep w/o looking at tune, heads, cam, etc.. it would be a good thing to look in to.

            I know of people that have sank 4K in to just their wheels..

            I don't know if I'd do rotors and wheels.. I would probably do one or the other.

            Unless I can find a compelling reason to not switch, then by fall, I'll probably ditch the PZ0s and put on the AS-03s since I drive year round..

            I skated by last winter on the stock tires with stock power.. No way in hell I'm doing that now with 660HP.

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            • #7
              I would also consider the quality of life and the performance you will get out of the tires. I Dont know of any general tire that handles very well compared to the other major tire manufactures.
              The Total performance of a tire goes way beyond just the size and weight.
              Also remember when you go all season tires like it or not you will give up considerable performance in dry.
              For someone looking for best option to acheive max performance in winter and summer. Buy a set of snow tires and wheels for winter and then choose the best summer tire application to suite your needs.
              G-MAN

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              • #8
                Sorry for the delay --- got this on my phone, read it and forgot to reply...

                I had noticed the rating on the tire and figured it would be less traction -- but, I don't know enough about compounds, builds, etc. to pull my own conclusions so I rely on popular information and results from individuals. Since these are so new, there's not much in the way of real information out there --

                I'm just not in a position that I can do two sets of tires for this car. I either have great summer tires and can't drive 1/4 of the year, deal with all season tires and have just a rear set of track tires or just do what I did last summer and stay on the PZ0s (not really an option due to power)

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                • #9
                  If you're an L99, don't forget a torque converter !

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