Yeah it requires flycutting, which has me a little nervous, but it doesn't seem to bad.
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Anyone have some L99 cam install tips
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Nice that's the one I want can't wait to hear and see the results
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Betasigpic
2011 2ss/rs
Roto fab cai
stainless works retro chambered catback with sw 1 7/8" catless headers
Flp tune (amazing tune)
dark dark tint
roto-fab CAI
12.805 at 108.95 with a 1.917 60' on stock pirellis
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Use two water pump bolts and screw them onto the cam to use as leverage and get a better grip. Please pull out slowly lol just like the virgin. Because you don't want to damage a bearing, cam bearings are very soft. Are you getting rid of the timing chain tensioner? If so that's a ticking time bomb, upgrade to an Ls2 dampened for 20 bux. Upgrade your timing chain to a C5r from katech. Take pics as go you along. Also buy an ARP cam bolt since you'll be making POWa with that rhino cam. Please make sure the motor is at TDC before you slap the heads back on. AND blow all of the bolt holes in the block and make sure they are completely DRY IF NOT YOU WILL crack the block. Are you getting GM MLS gaskets?
Where do you live? I can give a hand if need be.01 Ws6 40k miles,01 Ws6,m6, ASC#618 of 1583,AES built forged Ls3 416,LPE Ls3 heads 12-1 comp,FAST 102,N/W 102 Tb,Racetronix F/P,Kooks 2" headers,Kooks yp,Dmh dual c/o's,COMPLETE UMI suspension, Textrellia,Moser 9" spooled w/4.11's & 35 spline axels, Koni 4th Gen's,BMR springs,Sjm abs delete, tuned @ Straightline's mustang dyno 545hp/525tq
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It is a single bolt cam, I'm not sure how/if I can use the water pump bolts for it.
I am planning to keep the stock chain and tensioner. I went back and forth about swapping it out and in the end, I decided the stock should be ok. Hopefully I am not wrong.
Rhino sent me a "complete" kit with GM bolts and gaskets. So I am planning to use those.
I am in Gurnee, and would have loved the help, but I am already started so I couldn't plan a time in the future for you to come out. My father has been helping me out some, but he also had only ever worked with old school small block Chevy. If you are close or bored today shoot me a PM.
Thanks for the tips! Did you do the ls3 conversion in yours,I can't remember off hand now.
Originally posted by litle88 View PostUse two water pump bolts and screw them onto the cam to use as leverage and get a better grip. Please pull out slowly lol just like the virgin. Because you don't want to damage a bearing, cam bearings are very soft. Are you getting rid of the timing chain tensioner? If so that's a ticking time bomb, upgrade to an Ls2 dampened for 20 bux. Upgrade your timing chain to a C5r from katech. Take pics as go you along. Also buy an ARP cam bolt since you'll be making POWa with that rhino cam. Please make sure the motor is at TDC before you slap the heads back on. AND blow all of the bolt holes in the block and make sure they are completely DRY IF NOT YOU WILL crack the block. Are you getting GM MLS gaskets?
Where do you live? I can give a hand if need be.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
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Damn! Can you see it? I agrree, Pull the cam again.01 Ws6 40k miles,01 Ws6,m6, ASC#618 of 1583,AES built forged Ls3 416,LPE Ls3 heads 12-1 comp,FAST 102,N/W 102 Tb,Racetronix F/P,Kooks 2" headers,Kooks yp,Dmh dual c/o's,COMPLETE UMI suspension, Textrellia,Moser 9" spooled w/4.11's & 35 spline axels, Koni 4th Gen's,BMR springs,Sjm abs delete, tuned @ Straightline's mustang dyno 545hp/525tq
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Anyone who has done the VVT cam install in the past, did you reuse the solenoid valve bolt when you bolted the phaser back in or did you replace it? I didn't get a new one in my kit, and in the directions I am looking at it said to use a new one. So I am not 100% sure.
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Originally posted by Trackzero View PostAnyone who has done the VVT cam install in the past, did you reuse the solenoid valve bolt when you bolted the phaser back in or did you replace it? I didn't get a new one in my kit, and in the directions I am looking at it said to use a new one. So I am not 100% sure.
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