A few parts.....

[Toasty]

I'm shooting for middle Feb (17-18th).. It's going in this weekend for the oil issue and depending on what's truly wrong, that date may change.. You are still first up on the list for the agreed upon parts.

I'm getting anxious myself.

Hah I can imagine. I hate having new toys that I can't play with, lol

[Toasty]

No. The swaybars have their own bushings that hold them to the retaining clips. The endlinks (not arrived yet) connect the bars to the various parts of the suspension.

These parts are as follows:

Front of Car
EP6579 Radius Rod Bushings - Stage 3 - Inserts
EP2112 Steering - Rack & Pinion Mount

Rear of Car
EP1167 HD Differential Mounts - Stage 2
EP7264 Lower Control Arm Inner
EP7322 Upper Control Arm Rearward
EP7323 Rear Control Arm/Toe Link
Camaro Rear Lower Control Arm Link Brackets (reinforcement for the stock rear endlink mount point on the LCA that, under extra stress, can pull through)

Pedders - 5th Gen Camaro Suspension -- The Book

Some of the parts may be a little bit of an overkill and will most certainly raise the NVH inside the cabin some, but at my power levels with a manual trans, I need a lot of it to keep things more planted.. Other things in that kit are "well, while you're in there" parts that do help, are good to have, but make the most sense when done as a group. Though, if I can make a recommendation.. The IRS (Subframe) connection points are generally the most flexible and the consensus is those should be upgraded first since they hold the whole cradle to the car. You can do bars, trailing arms, toes, etc. and you can see improvements, but if the IRS mounts are still jumping all over the place, your improvements are negligible and you'll be fighting sloppy mounting still.. I had the solid subframe mounts from PFADT installed last year with trailing arms, so that's already set for me. Unless you're going to get to 500 RWHP/TQ or more, save yourself the time and money and just do the inserts (they don't require removal of the frame).

the rest of the parts above are very nicely explained in the link I provided.. Along with some other cool stuff people may not know about how their car is put together

Not tempted to get '12 LCA's with the revised mount point location for the sways?

[HumanWiki]

Not tempted to get '12 LCA's with the revised mount point location for the sways?

Not yet.... If I feel I really need it after these are installed, then I'll look at it.. But, I suspect that once these are installed.. I get my clutch/brakes separated in terms of fluid. Get my rotors/pads/lines installed and then my wheel/tire upgrade.... I'll have more car than driver..

[Toasty]

Not yet.... If I feel I really need it after these are installed, then I'll look at it.. But, I suspect that once these are installed.. I get my clutch/brakes separated in terms of fluid. Get my rotors/pads/lines installed and then my wheel/tire upgrade.... I'll have more car than driver..

Only then?

J/K You walked right into that one!

[HumanWiki]

Only then?

J/K You walked right into that one!

:P

[papabearcamaro]

Nice!
I have alot of the same parts waiting to go in someday. Could not pass up the 25% sale.

[HumanWiki]

If things go well, then all the above (minus rotors) will be going on this weekend... Then, in it's in to vehicle relearn time...

[HumanWiki]

Finally had a chance to push the car some with all the nice weather earlier this week..


Holy crap does the Pedders/PFADT stuff make a difference... took the Cumberland South clover leaf from 90/94 the other night and the car didn't even hesitate. No roll, pushing, no pulling, no instability. The car just turned in to the curve, stayed in it, stayed stable, rear fully planted, no hopping, nothing. Even the steering lag is gone.

Shifting lanes rapidly no longer results in body wobble then lane change. It's just one precise lateral movement.

There seems to be less pushback on the car when at highway speeds from the lowering (-1.5") which is nice.

The ride is much firmer now, but I have the coilovers set at 18F/14R so that's to be expected.

I will admit that I can hear tire/gear noise now -- not bad, but it's present. Also, I can hear the shifting mechanisms inside the cabin as well as the drive line slack -- also, not bad, just noticeable.

Wheel hopping on the street seems pretty much gone, even on the cooler days when I usually had more issues with that. Now, it's just tire spin when I push it too hard, but even that clears up faster than before.

Definitely anxious to see how it responds on an actual road course in April.

[HumanWiki]

MTI Braided Brake Lines




GTO clutch/brake sep kit






Also, MODS.. Can someone move this thread to Build Journals? It's seems to have become a continuing thread.. =)

[svtjackal]

Also, MODS.. Can someone move this thread to Build Journals? It's seems to have become a continuing thread.. =)

Done.

[HumanWiki]

Pads and new caliper bolts.

[gorgeous-ss]

Let me know how you like those pads

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[Bubbles]

Let me know how you like those pads

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

I have the same pads and rotors... And also have stainless lines, all of which already on the car.. And let me tell you I LOVE THEM! Screw OEM.

[Pro Stock John]

I got a ride in his car a couple of week ago just after I got mine, and the handling is much more improved over stock. I'm going to work on my suspension at some point too I'd like to lower mine a bit.