Lowering springs - HELP

[JD's 45th]

I purchased some BMR 1" springs. We are getting ready to put these on this coming weekend. My understanding is that once this is done, we need to time the bushings and then I will need a front and rear end alignment. Has anyone done this themselves (timing the bushings)? My dad doesn't want to do it and I don't know of any shops out near me (Joliet) that do it. I'm hoping this goes much better than my last project which was changing out the shocks/struts on a 2004 Explorer which was a b**ch!! Any info would be greatly appreciated!!!

[Potent SS]

Lowering springs - HELP

Experience Level Required
Novice wrencher

Estimated Time
2.5 hours without air tools

Tools Required
1/2 drive breaker-bar
1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drive ratchets
7mm, 10mm, 15mm shallow sockets
18mm, 21mm, 24mm deep sockets
21mm, 24mm wrenches
15mm, 18mm ratchet wrenches
T40, T50 Torx bit sockets
5mm Allen wrench
Razor box knife
Coil spring compressor (optional)
Floor jack & jackstands, or lift


Installation Steps

Rear Suspension – The rear shock strut assembly is held in with four screws around a metal flange at the top of the shock, and one large bolt at the bottom connecting it to the lower control arm. In order to get the shock assembly out, we need to disconnect the outer end of the lower control arm and allow it to swing downwards. This process takes about 35 minutes per side.

1. Working on a level and solid surface, jack one side of the rear of the car up, place on jackstand, and remove the wheel. It is never a good idea to do work with just a jack supporting the car.

2. Loosen all four screws at the top flange of the shock, using a 15mm socket or ratchet wrench. Leave the two outer screws in place, hand tight, to support the shock assembly until it is ready to come out. Remove the two rear screws.

3. Disconnect the swaybar end link from the upper connection point. This requires a 15mm ratchet wrench and a 5mm allen wrench stuck into the center of the stud to keep it from spinning.

4. Loosen and remove the lower shock bolt, using a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench as back-up.

5. Loosen and remove the lower spindle bolt where it connects to the control arm, using an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench as back-up. This will allow the lower control arm to swing down far enough to lift the bottom of the shock assembly out.

6. Remove the remaining two upper shock flange screws and lift the entire shock assembly out carefully.

7. Our spring did not have a lot of tension in it, but we used a coil spring compressor here just to be safe. We’d say it is optional, but without using one expect a “pop” as it comes undone. Just point the shock down the driveway, away from any objects or people, just to be safe. It takes an 18mm wrench and a T40 Torx socket to remove the upper nut on the shock. Pay attention to how all the parts fit together when taking this assembly apart, so it goes back together the same way.

8. With the shock assembly dismantled, remove the dust cover sleeve from the upper shock to find the rubber bump-stop inside. This must be cut down in size, using either a razor box knife or a small hand saw. Cutting instructions were included with the Pfadt kit.

9. Put together the shock assembly, making sure the new coil spring pigtail end lines up with the channel in the upper plate like the factory spring did. The lower end of the spring towards the ground doesn’t have any reference channel, just a rubber ring to sit on. Be sure to reuse these rubber spring isolators, to avoid squeaks and such when driving. The Pfadt coil springs are shorter than stock, so no coil spring compressor is required for re-assembly.

10. Installation of the rear shock strut assembly is just the opposite sequence of the removal process.

Front Suspension – The front shock strut assembly is held in place with one large nut and flange at the top of the shock tower, and two bolts attached to the spindle on the lower side. This process takes about 35 minutes per side.

1. Disconnect the brake line mount from the strut body, using a 10mm socket or wrench. Disconnect the ABS wire from the strut body simply by pulling the rubber boot loose from the mounting tab.

2. Disconnect the upper swaybar link from the strut body, using a 15mm ratchet wrench, and a 7mm socket to keep the stud from rotating.

3. Now the muscle comes into play. Loosen and remove the two bolts connecting the strut body to the spindle. Use a breaker bar and 24mm deep socket, along with a 24mm back-up wrench to get them loose. It felt like ours were installed by a gorilla, they were tight!

4. At this point, the strut is free and hanging by a single bolt at the top of the strut tower inside the engine bay. Pop the hood and remove the plastic nut cap by twisting it counter-clockwise. Use a 24mm wrench or deep socket to loosen only the top nut. Get a buddy to assist with catching the strut in case it falls out once that nut is removed. Once the nut and associated flange are removed, the strut is ready to be pulled out from the bottom. Do not be tempted to remove the second nut found under the first one, that comes later.

5. With the strut assembly removed from the car, now it is time to remove the coil spring. Use a 24mm wrench to loosen the nut, and a T50 Torx socket inserted into the stud to keep it from turning. We opted to use a spring compressor here, but the spring really wasn’t in much tension. Same as before, expect a “pop” if you do it without a compressor. Pay careful attention to the sequence and direction of each part removed, so that it goes back together the same way.

6. With the spring removed from the strut, remove the rubber dust boot by simply sliding it upwards off of the strut body. Inside, you will find the rubber bump stop. This bump stop needs to be cut down, using the box knife, as per the instructions found in the Pfadt kit. After cutting, put the bump stop and dust boot back on the strut assembly.

7. Install the Pfadt coil spring on the strut, aligning the lower pigtail with the groove in the lower coil spring tray found on the strut. No coil spring compressor required here, simply re-install the retention cap and 24mm nut.

8. Installation of the front shock strut assembly is just the opposite sequence of the removal process.

We recommend that you have a four-wheel alignment done as soon as possible, as lowering the car most likely changed the factory settings. Here is a link to Pfadt's recommended alignment specs. Now go out and enjoy your improved handling and killer stance, thanks to the Pfadt coil springs!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Potent SS]

Hope this helps... I have done this myself and using an impact wrench does help a lot ... You will definitely need to do an alignment ... I did not install bushings at the same time but I believe once everything is already opened up... Why not...
Also if you don't want to do it yourself Garett at Deerfield Has done a few for the club...worth the drive


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JD's 45th]

Now that's a lot to take in!! Lol. I have a video from BMR which shows how to do it. Did you time the bushings? I read somewhere on Camaro5 forum that you had to do it when you replace the springs. My dad has no problem with doing the springs. He just doesn't want to mess with the bushings. I have a guy that can do the alignment. I'm going to ch can with another friend about the bushings. They are existing as I'm not replacing those. Thanks for the info!!

[Potent SS]

Lowering springs - HELP

Now just so I know which bushings you are referring to..

[Potent SS]

Lowering springs - HELP

Ok I have read the timing of the bushings . Now I would just have the shop that is doing the alignment go over the bushings to re- torque them when the car is in the air and Suspension is under load... Or get a couple of ramps and take your time to get them perfect before you bring it to alignment... I personally never did that with mine, never had any issues either.....I feel earlier I had a foot in mouth moment sorry......

[JD's 45th]

So when you did your springs you never timed (re-torqued) the bushings? I have a good shop that can do the alignment but they won't do the bushings either. They told me I needed to find a good speed shop to do it. I'm going to check with my friend today. Hopefully he can help me.

[Potent SS]

I spoke to a mechanic friend of mine, he said it depends on the bushings and the drop. He said for an inch drop only its not that big of a deal as opposed to going 1 1/2 . Also reading more on the subject its up and down the board as some say you have to do it and some say it's not a big deal for an inch. I have not noticed any bouncing or driving issues with mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JD's 45th]

My friend is a mechanic too. He said he could do it if it needs it. My car is actually there now getting lowered. My dad was going to do it but his back has been bothering him and since my friend said he could do it now I figured why not as I'm still feeling bad about the last project my dad did. It really tore up his hands and took longer than he thought. Since mine is a vert it is going to drop a little lower than 1". Hoping it doesn't take too much away from the ride. Just got new tires and it rides much smoother.

[JD's 45th]

Just got it back and WOW is it a rough ride. Didn't think it would be this bad. Coilovers will be next. Not sure how long I can deal with this.

[Catonfarm]

Its a Camaro. You lowered it. It's not a Lincoln Towncar. What were you expecting?

[Hoosierguy]

I've always heard 1" lower is ok...anything more it turns into a rough rider. I thought about just lowering the rear a inch.

[Lawdog]

I could have told you that would happen LOL

you can always change it back. Some people I know have done that.

Just remember, the harder the ride the more wear and tear on all the parts as well.

[Lawdog]

Its a Camaro. You lowered it. It's not a Lincoln Towncar. What were you expecting?

LMAO

one of the reasons I like my Camaro is cause it has a decent ride for a small fast car. And this is coming from a daily caddy driver. Almost a towncar , haha
Part of that is accountable to the height and suspension and part of that is accountable to a fair amount of rubber between you and the street. i.e. no low profile tires.

[JD's 45th]

Its a Camaro. You lowered it. It's not a Lincoln Towncar. What were you expecting?

Oh, I figured it would ride just like the caddy I hadc5g:: I asked about this on Camaro 5 forum and BMR. I expected a rough ride but not that rough. Just trying to be different than all of the other 45th's out there.